If the heater fires up then something is going on with that sensor. Would it be the same if I just disconected the two wires from the mini Circuit and joined the wires together, or do they need to be in contact with the circuit. You can remove it with the one screw at the front, then there is an alignment wingnut on the top side. There is also a chance that it will just start working, now that you got it lit once. The system will not operate. Keep in mind that some of the sensors might be stopping the heater from starting up for a valid reason.
Do you have any idea what could trigger the problem? It probably won't, but you might get lucky. The gas line was disconnected at the main with a big warning sign. How did you get the burner tubes out? The top gets messy too, these metal bits are loose on this heater. Do I just spin it up and out of the way? I will try again today or tomorrow to see if I can get it going. Before we bought the house, I turned it on and it turned off immediately.
The electronic igniter, is much simpler. Opened the front panel and the transformer is working, output voltage is 28V. This thing is very old and I did not see any control boards — except the Honeyweel S27A Honeywell S87A Direct Spark Ignition Module. This is the gas valve and sensor , you could bypass this if you think there is a gas flow issue but only for testing. This image is of a millivolt pilot setup, I have the electronic ignition version. It came with a pool heater, so I was happy about that.
To narrow down the problem you need to jump across one of the sensors at a time. Though now after he visited, its no longer booting up for 10 minutes before, its only doing a few seconds again… sigh… Disconnect the control panel via this connector, the other two wires are the remote thermostats. This is the water flow meter, disconnect the two wires and join them together to bypass it for testing turn off the system first This just keeps the microswitch depressed when there is enough flow, you should hear it audibly click at system startup, might take a few seconds to get flow. Good day all, hoping someone can give me some help. I did some reading and saw that I could bypass or jump the wires to make the heater ignite, so I tried this using the black and white wires. So great a few months of the wife enjoying 90o degree pool, then the gas bill came, so it got turned off cept for weekends, a few weeks later. There should be a diagram in your manual listing the various sensors and labeling what each one does.
So once the line was all replaced, time to test the heater again. From your description I believe you jumped across the entire sensor circuit. Normally all you need to do is to touch the two ends of a short wire to the two terminals of the sensor. . Update: Replacing the ignitor fixed it, the bad wire was making the flame detector think the flame was off. The heater will not ignite when the knob is turned on. If you can narrow the problem down to a specific sensor it will be much easier to fix the problem.
If you are doing this test with the pump off, you can jump across the flow sensor and the heater may start, but the flow sensor is correctly detecting the lack of flow. To me that strikes of a heat issue, this time I called out a pool heater guy recommended by hayward, since I figured maybe it just needs a service. I have a hayward h250 pool heater with mini volt, the pilot light stays lit, there is lots of water pressure, and I have checked my water conectons, and they are fine. Do you have any pictures of that process? I used a shop vacuum, alternating between blow and vacuum. He comes out , cleans it, tests it, same issue, says its likely the control panel. I thought that this thing is not working, but couple of weeks ago I decided to give it try.
The system is getting power. For example, the heater should not startup unless the pump is running and water is flowing through the heater. I tried it by joining the wires together on three of the mini circuits but it did not work. . .
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